Q.
What should I do to prepare for whelping?
A.
From the time of mating many females will show behavioral
changes, often becoming more affectionate. However, some pets
will become uncharacteristically irritable and may even act
aggressive. Be sensitive to your pet’s changes and be sure to
alert your veterinarian if you observe any changes that you are
uncomfortable with.
Q.
Does morning sickness occur in the dogs?
A.
Some dogs do experience a few days of vomiting (“morning
sickness”) usually followed by the development of a ravenous
appetite which will persist throughout the pregnancy. Morning
sickness does not occur in all dogs. There is also a normal
decrease in the desire for exercise and physical activity during
the last two weeks of pregnancy.
Q.
My dog seems to want to hide in strange places. Is this normal?
A. During the last week of pregnancy the female often starts to
look for a safe place for whelping. Some pets appear to become
confused, wanting to be with their owners and at the same time
wanting to prepare their nest. It is a good idea to get your pet
used to the place where you want her to have her puppies well in
advance of whelping. Even so, there are a number of dogs that
insist on having their puppies near the owner.
This may be in the middle of the night, on your bed. Be warned!
Q.
If she does start whelping in my bedroom, what should I do?
A.
It will be far less stressful for everyone to allow her to
continue in her chosen place. Make sure you spread lots of old
newspaper and, if possible, cover the carpet with a plastic
sheet covered by newspaper. Remember it is normal for fetal
fluids to be colored green. These stains can be difficult to
clean.
Once your pet has finished whelping, try gently moving her and
her family to your chosen place. She should be well acquainted
with this area prior to whelping.
If your pet insists on being near you with her puppies, allow
her. A whelping box in a quiet corner of the living room that
has been covered with newspapers and sheets is preferable to an
anxious mother constantly leaving her puppies.
Q.
Should I be present during the whelping?
A.
Some dogs like the owner to be with them the whole time they are
in labor. Others prefer to have their puppies in seclusion.
Respect your pet’s wishes and avoid intruding any more than
necessary.
Q.
What should I prepare in advance?
A. 1. Make
sure you have plenty of clean newspaper and sheets or towels.
2. Select the place where you would like her to have her puppies.
Make sure that a suitable whelping box has been selected and
placed there. The whelping box should be large enough for her to
move around freely with low sides so that she can see and easily
move in and out. A large cardboard packing case with an open top
and a piece cut out at the side is ideal for many dogs. Be sure
to ask your veterinary healthcare team for more advice on making
a whelping box for your pet.
3. Line the bottom of the whelping box with plenty of paper. There
will be a large amount of fluid at the time of whelping. If
sufficient layers of newspaper and cloth are laid before
whelping, you can remove soiled layers with minimum interruption
to the mother and her newborn puppies immediately after the
whelping.
4. Acrylic bedding, which is easily washed, can be used to cover
the newspaper, although, during the whelping, plain newspaper is
probably less hazardous and the puppies are less likely to get
hidden beneath it.
Q.
How will I know when my dog is going to start having puppies?
A.
Some females stop eating during the last 24 hours before labor,
although this is certainly not universal. The rectal temperature
will drop below 100oF usually within 24 of whelping.
Second stage labor is the stage of delivery. Your dog
will start to strain. If straining continues for two hours
without any signs of a watery discharge (“water breaking”) or
puppies, you should contact your veterinarian. Most dogs
experience no complications with delivery. First time mothers
should be attended by their owners until at least one or two
puppies have been born.
This is followed by second stage labor when the female starts to
forcibly contract her uterus. These contractions start gradually
and increase in intensity, frequency and duration. If intense
contractions have been occurring for 20 to 30 minutes without a
puppy being delivered, it is important to contact your
veterinarian.
Other situations where veterinary help is needed include:
1.
A
mother straining for 8-10 minutes with a puppy or fluid filled
bubble stuck in the birth canal
2.
A
female with a body temperature of more than 39.5oC
(103oF)
3.
Bleeding from the vagina for more than ten minutes
4.
A
green discharge from the vagina without puppies being born
Q.
My dog has not had puppies before. Do you think she will be all
right left alone during whelping?
A.
Females having puppies for the first time should be kept under
surveillance until you think they have finished, just in case
they get into trouble. Make sure the puppies are being cared for
by your dog, particularly if she is still in labor. Some females
are more concerned with straining to produce the next puppy than
to be bothered with those that have already been delivered. If
that is the case, a small cardboard box with a bottle filled
with warm (not hot) water, wrapped in a towel should be placed
with the puppies to ensure they remain warm while the mother
finishes delivery.
Q.
How long will whelping take?
A.
Delivery times vary. Dogs with fairly slim heads such as
Shelties, Collies and Dobermans may complete delivery of all the
puppies within 2-3 hours. Brachycephalic breeds, i.e. those with
large, round heads such as Pugs, Boston Terriers, Pekingese,
tend to have more difficult deliveries and sometimes will
produce one or two relatively quickly and then rest for a while
before labor starts again.
If your dog has produced at least one puppy and then does not
strain again within two hours, we should be contacted. Similarly
if the bitch has been straining continuously for a couple of
hours and has not had a puppy it is important that she receives
veterinary care.
Q.
How are puppies normally born? Do they usually come backwards?
A.
Puppies are usually born headfirst with the forelegs extended.
This is called anterior presentation. Posterior presentation is
also normal in the bitch. Here the puppy is born with tail and
hind legs coming first. This is not breech presentation. A
breech presentation is one in which the hind legs are forward
and the tail and bottom are presented. This is abnormal.
Some breech presentations can result in a normal delivery but
usually result in complications.
If a puppy’s tail is seen
hanging from the vulva or there is a lump just behind the vulval
lips and your pet is straining, contact us immediately.
Q.
Should my dog pass an afterbirth after each puppy?
A.
Each puppy is enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta or
afterbirth. This sac is usually broken at birth and passed after
each puppy is born. This is often unnoticed since it is normal
for the female to eat them. The hormones the afterbirth contains
help with milk production. Sometimes a mother will have two or
three puppies and then pass several of the afterbirths together.
Q.
Is it important that I count the afterbirths?
A.
It may be difficult to obtain an accurate count of the number of
afterbirths since most dogs will eat them quickly. If an
afterbirth is not passed, it usually disintegrates and passes
unnoticed within 24-48 hours after delivery. This usually
happens when the dog relieves herself.
If the mother has a bloody or smelly vaginal discharge 24-48
hours after delivery, veterinary help should be sought.
Q.
How soon should a puppy be born after it is seen emerging from
the birth canal?
A.
In a normal delivery a few contractions will produce the puppy.
Ten minutes is reasonable. Following delivery the mother will
lick and chew at the puppy and often appears to be treating it
quite roughly. In most cases this is normal behavior and
stimulates the puppy to start breathing. During the chewing and
licking she tears the birth sac and exposes the mouth and nose
so that the puppy can breathe. You will realize all is well if
the puppy starts to whimper or cry.
Sometimes the placenta is delivered immediately after the puppy
and is attached by the umbilical cord. The mother normally chews
the umbilical cord and breaks it about an inch from the puppy,
consuming the placenta at the same time. However in some breeds
the mother seems to become over enthusiastic and may lick and
chew at the puppy until she injures it. Therefore, it is
advisable to observe the dog as she cares for her newborn
puppies, particularly if it is her first litter.
Q. I have heard that some females will have a puppy still attached
to the afterbirth and run away and leave it.
A.
This can sometimes happen in first-time mothers. If this
happens, it is important that you ensure the puppy’s mouth and
nostrils are clear of any afterbirth or membranes. Remember the
puppy is born in a fluid filled sac that usually breaks during
birth. If the puppy is delivered still in the sac, break it as
quickly as possible. Clean the puppy’s face and nostrils and
then gently blow on its face to try and stimulate breathing. If
the afterbirth is still intact, hold the umbilical cord between
your finger and thumb with the puppy resting in the palm of your
hand and cut the cord with a pair of scissors approximately an
inch from the puppy. Holding it for a few seconds will usually
stop any bleeding. Otherwise tie it with clean thread.
Next, hold the puppy in a towel and gently rub it until the hair
starts to dry. The puppy should then start to whimper and
breathe normally. The tongue should be pink. You can then offer
it to the mother. If she is more interested in delivering
further puppies, place it in a box with a warm water bottle
covered by a towel. Be sure to cover the puppy with a warm towel
to keep it warm.
Q.
What happens if the puppy is visible but my dog can’t deliver
it?
A.
Speed is of the essence in such situations, especially if it is
a posterior or breech presentation. If the puppy is coming
headfirst make sure that the membranes are removed from the
visible part of the mouth and face. If the puppy is coming
backwards, speed is important otherwise it will suffocate. This
is considered a medical emergency.
Q.
What should I do?
A.
Regardless of whether the puppy is coming head first or hind
first, take a piece of clean tissue or clean cloth and gently
grab the puppy and apply traction at approximately 45o
to the angle between the spine and the hind legs. Do not just
pull when the mother strains. Constant, gentle traction on the
puppy will stimulate additional contractions. Once the puppy has
been born, clear the membranes and then cut the cord. If the
afterbirth is still inside the mother, do not worry. It is
important to stimulate the puppy by blowing gently down the
nostrils and mouth and clearing any discharges, membranes,
debris and also stimulating it by gently rubbing it with a towel
until it starts to breathe.
If you cannot move the puppy or if it appears to be painful to
the mother, seek veterinary help immediately.
Q.
Is it true that the puppy will die if it is not stimulated
immediately after birth?
A.
If the puppy is born within the fetal sac, it will be unable to
breathe. It is important that if the mother doesn’t break the
sac, you should by following the above instructions.
Fortunately, most puppies break the sac as they are born.
Q.
I understand puppies can drown in their own fetal fluids. Is
this true?
A.
Newborn puppies may try to breathe while still within the sac
surrounded by fluid. The fluid then enters the lungs. This is an
emergency. If they have breathed in fetal sac fluid, their
breathing will sound raspy and gurgly. This fluid should be
removed as soon as possible. Hold the puppy in the palm of your
hand, cradling the head between your first and second fingers.
The head should be held while your other hand supports and
steadies the body. Swing the puppy firmly downwards, headfirst.
The centrifugal force generated should make the puppy gasp.
Gravity will help the fluid and mucus flow out of the lungs and
mouth. Repeat this several times checking the color of the
tongue and listening to the breathing. The tongue should change
from a grayish blue color to pink if you are successful. If it
remains bluish, continue the swinging process. Do not give up
for at least 10-15 minutes. Once the puppy is breathing, place
it in the warm box as before.
Q.
Are some of the puppies likely to be stillborn or die after
birth?
A.
With animals that have multiple births, like dogs, it is not
unusual for some of the offspring to either be born dead or to
die shortly after birth. Sometimes a stillborn puppy will
disrupt the birthing process resulting in dystocia or birthing
complication.
At other times the dead puppy may be born normally.
Determining the cause of these neonatal deaths is often
impossible without a full post mortem (autopsy), including
bacteriological examination and submission of tissues to a
histopathologist.
Some causes of neonatal death can be prevented. It is important
to consult with your veterinarian regarding any problems with
your pet’s pregnancy or whelping.
Are puppies, like babies, sometimes born prematurely?
Premature delivery does occur but it is not as common as
thought. Often these so-called premature deliveries have been an
error in mating dates or a miscalculation in gestation period
(period of pregnancy). This is usually 63 days.
Q.
How can I tell if the pups are premature?
A.
Truly premature puppies may be small, thin and have little or no
hair. Survival is possible but they require an enormous amount
of care and often have to be hand fed since they are unable to
suckle. Sometimes they have to be fed by stomach tube (gavage
feeding). If necessary, your veterinarian will show you how to
do this.
Mothers will often reject premature puppies and they soon die of
hypothermia (low body temperature). Excessive heat
(hyperthermia) can be just as harmful as hypothermia so the
temperature of the puppy’s environment must be carefully
controlled. Environmental temperature must be maintained at
around 30oC (90oF) and the box must be
large enough so that the puppies can move away from the heat
source if necessary.
The puppies must also be kept in a moist atmosphere if they are
being raised away from the mother. The mother usually licks and
cleans the puppies frequently. As a result, not only is the
environment warm, it is also moist. You can provide a moist
environment by placing warm, damp cloths in the box with them.
Q.
How long will I have to hand raise premature puppies?
A.
Once the puppies are stronger and able to suckle, the mother
will very often take over herself. It is very important to try
and ensure they are fed her “first milk” which contains
necessary antibodies to help prevent infection.
If the puppies can suck hold them on to the mother’s teats. If
this fails, we will advise you on milk replacement and proper
puppy bottles.
Although very rewarding if the puppies survive, hand raising
puppies is extremely challenging and many puppies fail to
survive.
Q.
Is it possible to keep the puppies too warm?
Q.
The puppies have been living in a temperature of 101.5oF
which is pretty warm by human standards. However, immediately
after birth puppies are unable to control their own body
temperature and are dependent upon external warmth. Many puppies
lack the strength to move away from a heat source. Be sure to
use a thermometer, especially if you are using heat lamps. Keep
the area around 100ºF.
Q.
Should I continue the heat source if the mother is nursing her
puppies?
A.
Usually not. This depends on the breed but if a heat lamp is
used, care must be exercised otherwise the mother and puppies
can become overheated.
Q. I am told that with some breeds Caesarian sections are more
common than a normal delivery. Is this true?
A.
Unfortunately in certain breeds there are strains and families
that do seem to have increased risk of dystocia (difficult
birth) resulting in the need for a Caesarian section. The timing
of this is always difficult. If performed too late it can result
in dead puppies and if embarked upon too early, it may have
subjected the bitch to unnecessary surgery. It is a matter that
always requires full and frank discussion between you and your
veterinarian. However, bulldogs are no longer able to
deliver normally and will require a planned c-section to give
birth.
____________________________________________
This client information sheet is based on material written by
Ernest E. Ward Jr., DVM
© Copyright 2002 Lifelearn Inc.
Used with permission under license. TIME \@ "MMMM d, yyyy"
March 3, 2010.
