KITTENS: RECOMMENDATIONS FOR
NEW OWNERS
We would like to congratulate you
on the acquisition of your new kitten. Owning a cat can be an
extremely rewarding experience, but it is also a large
responsibility. We hope this handout will give you the information
needed to make some good decisions regarding your kitten.
First let us say that we are
grateful that you have chosen us to help you with your kitten's
health care. If you have questions concerning any subject related to
your kitten's health, please feel free to call our hospital. Our
technicians or doctors will be happy to help you.
How should I
introduce my kitten to its new environment?
A cat is naturally inclined to
investigate its new surroundings. It is suggested that the cat's
area of exploration be initially limited so that these natural
tendencies do not create an unmanageable task. After confining the
cat to one room for the first few days, you should slowly allow
access to other areas of the home.
How should I
introduce my new kitten to my other cat?
Most kittens receive a hostile
reception from other household pets, especially from another cat.
The other cat usually sees no need for a kitten in the household and
these feelings are reinforced if it perceives that special
favoritism is being shown the kitten. The existing cat must not feel
that it is necessary to compete for food or attention. The new
kitten should have its own food and food bowl and it should not be
permitted to eat from the other cat’s bowl. Although it is natural
to spend time holding and cuddling the kitten, the existing cat will
quickly sense that it is being neglected. The new kitten needs lots
of love and attention, but the existing cat should not be slighted.
In fact, the transition will be smoother if the existing cat is
given more attention than normal.
The introduction period will usually
last one to two weeks and will have one of three possible outcomes.
1.
The
existing cat will remain hostile to the kitten. Fighting may
occasionally occur, especially if both try to eat out of the same
bowl at the same time. This is an unlikely occurrence if competition
for food and affection are minimized during the first few weeks.
2.
The
existing cat will only tolerate the kitten. Hostility will
cease, but the existing cat will act as if the kitten is not
present. This is more likely if the existing cat is very
independent, has been an only cat for several years, or if marked
competition occurred during the first few weeks. This relationship
is likely to be permanent.
3.
Bonding will occur between the
existing cat and the kitten. They will play together, groom each
other, and sleep near each other. This is more likely to occur if
competition is minimized and if the existing cat has been lonely for
companionship.
What type of
playing should I expect from a kitten?
Stimulating play is important
during the first week. Stalking and pouncing are important play
behaviors in kittens and have an important role in proper muscular
development. If given a sufficient outlet for these behaviors with
toys, your kitten will be less likely to use family members for
these activities. The best toys are lightweight and movable. These
include wads of paper, small balls, and string or ribbon. Kittens
should always be supervised when playing with string or ribbons to
avoid swallowing them. Any other toy that is small enough to be
swallowed should also be avoided.
Can I discipline a
kitten?
Disciplining a young kitten may
be necessary if its behavior threatens people or property, but harsh
punishment should be avoided. Hand clapping and using shaker cans or
horns can be intimidating enough to inhibit undesirable behavior.
However, remote punishment is preferred. Remote punishment consists
of using something that appears unconnected to the punisher to stop
the problem behavior. Examples include using spray bottles, throwing
objects in the direction of the kitten to startle (but not hit) it,
and making loud noises. Remote punishment is preferred because the
kitten associates punishment with the undesirable act and not with
you.
When should my
kitten be vaccinated?
There are many diseases that are
fatal to cats. Fortunately, we have the ability to prevent many of
these by the use of very effective vaccines. In order to be
effective, these vaccines must be given as a series of injections.
Ideally, they are given at about 6-8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, but
this schedule may vary somewhat depending on several factors.
The routine vaccination schedule
will protect your kitten from five diseases: feline panleukopenia
(distemper), three respiratory organisms, and rabies. The first four
are included in a combination vaccine that is given at 6-8, 12, and
16 weeks old. Rabies vaccine is given at 12-16 weeks of age.
Leukemia vaccine is appropriate for any cat but a necessity if your
cat does or will go outside or if you have another cat that goes in
and out. This deadly disease is transmitted by contact with other
cats, especially when fighting occurs. A vaccine is also available
for protection against feline infectious peritonitis (FIP), a
disease that is most likely to occur in groups of cats.
Why does my kitten
need more than one vaccination for feline distemper, upper
respiratory infections, and leukemia?
When the kitten nurses its
mother, it receives a temporary form of immunity through its
mother's milk. This immunity is in the form of proteins called
antibodies. For about 24-48 hours after birth, the kitten's
intestine allows absorption of these antibodies directly into the
blood stream. This immunity is of benefit during the first few weeks
of the kitten's life, but, at some point, this immunity fails and
the kitten must be able to make its own long-lasting immunity.
Vaccinations are used for this purpose. As long as the mother's
antibodies are present, vaccinations do not "take" or provide
protection. The mother's antibodies will neutralize the vaccine so
the vaccine does not get a chance to stimulate the kitten's immune
system.
Many factors determine when the
kitten will be able to respond to vaccines. These include the level
of immunity in the mother cat, how much of the antibody has been
absorbed by the nursing kitten, and the number of vaccines the
kitten receives. Since we do not know when an individual kitten will
lose the short-term immunity, we give a series of vaccinations. We
hope that at least two of these will fall in the window of time when
the kitten has lost the immunity from its mother but has not yet
been exposed to disease. A single vaccination, even if effective, is
not likely to stimulate the long-term immunity, which is so
important.
Rabies vaccine is an exception to
this, since one injection given at the proper age and time is enough
to produce long-term immunity.
Do
all kittens have worms?
Intestinal parasites are common
in kittens. Kittens can become infected with parasites almost as
soon as they are born. For example, the most important source of
roundworm infection in kittens is the mother's milk. The microscopic
examination of a stool sample will usually help us to determine the
presence of intestinal parasites. We recommend this exam for all
kittens, if we can get a stool sample. Please bring one at your
earliest convenience. Even if we do not get a stool sample, we
recommend the use of a broad spectrum deworming product that is safe
and effective against almost all of the common worms of the cat. It
is given now and repeated in about 3-4 weeks, because the deworming
medication only kills the adult worms. Within 3-4 weeks the larval
stages will have become adults and will need to be treated. Cats
remain susceptible to reinfection with hookworms and roundworms.
Periodic deworming throughout the cat's life may be recommended for
cats that go outdoors.
Tapeworms are the most common
intestinal parasite of outdoor cats that hunt mice. Cats infected
with tapeworms will pass small segments of the worms in their stool.
The segments are white in color and look like grains of rice. They
are about 1/8 inch (3 mm) long and may be seen crawling on the
surface of the stool. They may also stick to the hair under the
tail. If that occurs, they will dry out, shrink to about half their
size, and become golden in color.
Tapeworm segments do not pass
every day or in every stool sample; therefore, inspection of several
consecutive bowel movements may be needed to find them. We may
examine a stool sample in our office and not find them, and then you
may find them the next day. If you find them at any time, please
notify us so we may provide the appropriate drug for treatment.
There are lots of
choices of cat foods. What should I feed my kitten?
Diet is extremely important in
the growing months of a cat's life, and there are two important
criteria that should be met in selecting food for your kitten. We
recommend a NAME-BRAND FOOD made by a national cat food company (not
a generic or local brand), and a form of food MADE FOR KITTENS. This
should be fed until your kitten is about 12 months of age. We
recommend that you only buy food that has the AAFCO certification.
Usually, you can find this information very easily on the label.
AAFCO is an organization that oversees the entire pet food industry.
It does not endorse any particular food, but it will certify that
the food has met the minimum requirements for nutrition. Most of the
commercial pet foods will have the AAFCO label. Generic brands often
do not have it. In Canada, look for foods approved by the Canadian
Veterinary Medical Association (CVMA).
Feeding a dry, canned, or
semi-moist form of cat food is acceptable. Each has advantages and
disadvantages. Dry food is definitely the most inexpensive. It can
be left in the cat's bowl at all times. If given the choice, the
average cat will eat a mouthful of food about 12-20 times per day.
For cats prone to over-eating and overweight cats, we recommend
feeding a measured amount of food morning and night (about 1/4-1/3
cup per feeding). A high quality dry food has all the nutrients you
cat needs.
Semi-moist and canned foods are
also acceptable. However, both are considerably more expensive than
dry food. They often are more appealing to the cat's taste; however,
they are not more nutritious. If you feed a very tasty food, you are
running the risk of creating a cat with a finicky appetite. In
addition, the semi-moist foods are high in sugar and increase the
risk of dental disease.
Table foods are not recommended.
Because they are generally very tasty, cats will often begin to hold
out for these and not eat their well-balanced cat food. If you
choose to give your kitten table food, be sure that at least 90% of
its diet is good quality commercial kitten food. We enjoy a variety
of things to eat in our diet. However, most cats actually prefer not
to change from one food to another unless they are trained to do so
by the way you feed them. Do not feel guilty if your cat is happy to
just eat one food day after day, week after week.
Commercials for cat food can be
very misleading. If you watch carefully you will notice that
commercials promote cat food on one basis: TASTE. Nutrition is
rarely mentioned. Most of the "gourmet" foods are marketed to appeal
to owners who want the best for their cats; however, they do not
offer the cat any nutritional advantage over a good quality dry
food, and they are far more expensive. If your cat eats a gourmet
food very long, it will probably not be happy with other foods. If
it needs a special diet due to a health problem later in life, it is
very unlikely to accept it. Therefore, we do not encourage feeding
gourmet cat foods.
How do I insure
that my kitten is well socialized?
The socialization period for cats
is between 2 and 12 weeks of age. During that time, the kitten is
very impressionable to social influences. If it has good experiences
with men, women, children, dogs, other cats, etc., it is likely to
accept them throughout life. If the experiences are absent or
unpleasant, it may become apprehensive or adverse to any of them.
Therefore, during the period of socialization, we encourage you to
expose your cat to as many types of social events and influences as
possible.
Can I trim my
kitten's sharp toenails?
Kittens have very sharp toenails.
They can be trimmed with nail trimmers made for dogs and cats, which
are available for purchase at Sandy Animal Clinic. If you take too
much off the nail, you will get into the quick; bleeding and pain
will occur. If this happens, neither you nor your cat will want to
do this again. Therefore, a few points are helpful:
a.
If your cat has clear or white nails,
you can see the pink of the quick through the nail. Avoid the pink
area, and you should be out of the quick.
b.
If your cat has black nails, you will
not be able to see the quick so only cut 1/32" (1 mm) of the nail at
a time until the cat begins to get sensitive. The sensitivity will
usually occur before you are into the blood vessel. With black
nails, it is likely that you will get too close on at least one
nail.
c.
If your cat has some clear and some
black nails, use the average clear nail as a guide for cutting the
black ones.
d.
When cutting nails, use sharp
trimmers. Dull trimmers tend to crush the nail and cause pain even
if you are not in the quick.
e.
You should always have styptic powder
available. This is sold at Sandy Animal Clinic or in pet stores
under several trade names, but it will be labeled for use in
trimming nails.
What are ear
mites?
Ear mites are tiny insect-like
parasites that live in the ear canal of cats (and dogs). The most
common sign of ear mite infection is scratching of the ears.
Sometimes the ears will appear dirty because of a black material in
the ear canal; this material is sometimes shaken out. Sometimes, we
can find the mites by taking a small amount of the black material
from the ear canal and examining it with a microscope. Although they
may leave the ear canals for short periods of time, they spend the
vast majority of their lives within the protection of the ear canal.
Transmission generally requires direct ear-to-ear contact. Ear mites
are common in litters of kittens if their mother has ear mites.
Why should I have
my female cat spayed?
Spaying offers several
advantages. The female's heat periods result in about 2-3 weeks of
obnoxious behavior. This can be quite annoying if your cat is kept
indoors. Male cats are attracted from blocks away and, in fact, seem
to come out of the woodwork. They seem to go over, around, and
through many doors. Your cat will have a heat period about every 2-3
weeks until she is bred.
Spaying is the removal of the
uterus and the ovaries. Therefore, heat periods no longer occur. In
many cases, despite your best efforts, the female will become
pregnant; spaying prevents unplanned litters of kittens.
It has been proven that as the
female cat gets older, there is a significant incidence of mammary
tumors and uterine infections if she has not been spayed. Spaying
before she has any heat cycles will virtually eliminate the chances
of developing breast cancer. If you do not plan to breed your cat,
we strongly recommend that she be spayed before her first heat
period. This can be done anytime after she is five months old.
Why should I have
my male cat neutered?
Neutering offers several
advantages. Male cats go through a significant personality change
when they mature. They become very possessive of their territory and
mark it with their urine to ward off other cats. The tomcat's urine
develops a very strong odor that will be almost impossible to remove
from your house. They also try to constantly enlarge their
territory, which means one fight after another. Fighting results in
severe infections and abscesses and often engenders rage in your
neighbors. We strongly urge you to have your cat neutered at about
four to six months of age. If he should begin to spray his urine
before that time, he should be neutered immediately. The longer he
sprays or fights, the less likely neutering is to stop it.
If I choose to
breed my cat, when should I start?
If you plan to breed your cat,
she should have at least one or two heat periods first. This will
allow her to physically mature allowing her to be a better mother
without such a physical drain on her. We do not recommend breeding
after 5 years of age unless she has been bred prior to that. Having
her first litter after five years of age is more physically draining
to her and increases the chances of her having problems during the
pregnancy and/or delivery. Once your cat has had her last litter,
she should be spayed to prevent the female problems older cats
have.
My kitten is already
becoming destructive. What can be done?
There are three options that you
should consider: frequent nail clipping, nail shields, and surgical
declawing.
The nails may be clipped
according to the instructions above. However, your cat's nails will
regrow and become sharp again in about 4-7 days. Therefore, to
protect your property, it will be necessary to clip them one to two
times per week.
There are some commercially
available products that are called nail caps. These are generally
made of smooth plastic and attach to the end of the nail with
special glue. The nails are still present, but the caps prevent them
from causing destruction. After 2-4 weeks the nails will grow enough
that the caps will be shed. At that time, you should be prepared to
replace them.
Surgical
declawing is the removal of the nail at its base. This is done under
general anesthesia. There is very little post-surgical discomfort,
especially when it is performed on a kitten. Contrary to the belief
of some, this surgery does not cause lameness or psychological
damage. Actually, a declawed cat will not realize the claws are gone
and will continue to "sharpen" the claws as normal without
inflicting damage to your furniture. This surgery can be done as
early as 12 weeks of age or anytime thereafter. It can also be done
the same time as spaying or neutering. Once declawed, your cat
should always live indoors since the ability to defend itself is
compromised.
Can you recommend something
for pet identification?
The latest in pet retrieval is
microchipping. This tiny device is implanted with a needle so the
process is much like getting an injection. Our scanner can detect
these chips; humane societies and animal shelters across the country
also have scanners. A national registry permits the return of
microchipped pets throughout the United States and Canada. We
strongly recommend that all pets be microchipped.
